Sometimes you forget you’re only living somewhere temporarily — until you pack your bags again.
Wednesday was moving day. I had to vacate the transitional apartment by 5 PM, so I wrapped up early, cleaned, tidied — left it the way I’d found it. Then the taxi came.
The new place is a student hotel: lots of rooms, lots of students, far less anonymity than before. That has its advantages. On the other hand, the room is smaller, the kitchenette covers the basics — and a few things are still missing. No pot, no kitchen cloth. Small things, but you notice them right away.
What makes up for it: there’s a gym, a reading room with tables, a large common room with a couch and TV, and even a games room with a foosball table. On top of that, the Bulgarians I already knew from the shared office live on the same floor. One of them mentioned in passing that the place only opened on April 1st. We’re the first residents here — which probably explains why a few things are still missing.
Holy Thursday
Public holiday — no work. Sleeping in, a slow start to the morning.
By the afternoon, I found myself drawn to the city anyway. And that was a good call.
Holy Thursday is one of the most intense days of Semana Santa, Holy Week. The streets fill with the so-called Nazarenos — penitents in long robes wearing the distinctive Capirote, a tall pointed hood that covers the entire face except for the eyes. For someone unfamiliar with it, the first impression can be unsettling. But the idea behind it is actually quite simple: anonymity. The penitent approaches God unrecognized, without making a public spectacle of it.
The different color combinations of the robes represent the various Cofradías — brotherhoods — that participants belong to. In the photos you can see green-and-white, blue-and-white, and black — each color its own community, its own history. In the background stands the Catedral del Salvador, La Seo, and the setting makes clear just how solemn and ceremonial all of this is meant to be.
What struck me most was the sound. A distinctive feature in Zaragoza is the heavy use of drums — Tambores and Bombos — whose deep, powerful rhythm echoes through the entire city. You hear the processions before you see them.
Good Friday
The following day was defined entirely by the Procesión del Santo Entierro — the Procession of the Holy Burial. All the brotherhoods of the city gather and march together through the streets. It’s the longest and most important procession of the entire week.
Particularly impressive were the Pasos — massive float-like altars carrying intricately carved scenes from the Passion of Christ. They often weigh hundreds of kilos and are carried step by step through the narrow lanes by the Costaleros. The city was packed, the atmosphere entirely different from ordinary days — solemn, almost heavy.
In the evening, a short workout session with the Bulgarians back at the residence. A pleasant way to wind down the day.
Komoot and a Burger Festival
Sunday I opened the Komoot app again. A relaxed route through the city — just walking, looking, arriving. Here is the link to the route with a few photos along the way.
Zaragoza is a beautiful city — I can say that now with some conviction. A mix of modern buildings and older structures, very different depending on the neighborhood. Where I live, high-rises dominate. Other areas feel more contemporary, with striking architecture and bridges worth seeking out. There are plenty of construction sites — the city is clearly changing, even if it isn’t always immediately obvious.
On the way back I stumbled across a festival — burgers, music, some kind of challenges. Somehow funny, somehow perfectly fitting for a relaxed weekend here.
Something I’ve noticed across these days: the Spanish really do place a lot of value on being together. Bars fill up in the evenings not because everyone wants to party, but simply because people come together. A drink, a conversation, the evening. There’s something unhurried about it that I don’t really know from Berlin.
Now I’m back. Tired from the weekend, but in a good way. Tomorrow, work starts again.